John Anthony: A Colonial Past, Reimagined in Dim Sum and Design

John Anthony: A Colonial Past, Reimagined In Dim Sum And Design

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June 23, 2025 in Cuisine

 

 

Dim sum houses can be found in nearly every corner of the globe, and while many of them serve up unforgettable bites, few are remembered for their design. That makes John Anthony in Hong Kong an unexpected standout.

Of course, at the heart of any dim sum destination is the food—and in this case, it will ultimately be the menu that determines the restaurant’s longevity. But the environment built around it certainly demands a second look.

Tucked into the lower level of the sprawling Lee Garden Three complex in Causeway Bay, the 700-square-metre (7,535 sq. ft) space is the work of Linehouse, the young architecture and interiors studio known for its textural, narrative-rich design.

Founded in 2013 by Alex Mok (Chinese-Swedish) and Briar Hickling (New Zealander), Linehouse has carved a niche with its ability to blend cultural reference, material craft, and layered detail into spaces that feel both modern and storied.

Their client, Maximal Concepts, is one of Hong Kong’s most prominent hospitality groups—managing over a dozen brands and expanding rapidly across Asia.

The idea for John Anthony was inspired by the historical figure of the same name—the first Chinese man to be naturalized as a British citizen in 1805, and later known for hosting Chinese sailors and merchants in London’s docklands.

Drawing from this history, the restaurant’s design reflects a nuanced collision of cultures—melding Eastern craft with British colonial architecture, and layering it with Linehouse’s signature eye for material richness and restraint.

The result is a stylized meeting of a traditional Chinese canteen and a British teahouse, told through a language of arched forms, faded pastels, and quietly elegant details that elevate without overwhelming.

Despite the nautical and immigrant narrative, there’s a softness here: in the archways we never tire of, in the tones that soothe rather than shout, and in the atmosphere that feels more refined salon than sailor’s inn.

Mok and Hickling have also placed sustainability at the centre of the project. Recycled plastics and paper have been transformed into menus and coasters, reclaimed terracotta tiles line the floors, and the kitchen sources traceable ingredients with a focus on responsible supply chains—an approach that speaks to the deeper responsibilities of contemporary hospitality.

John Anthony isn’t just a restaurant—it’s a quietly radical statement on how history, sustainability, and design can converge to shape the future of dining.

Thomas Reid has been defining Edition’s identity since day one. As Lifestyle and Culture Director, he oversees the magazine’s storytelling across print, digital, and its creative agency arm. His London roots and global outlook inform a rich editorial approach that blends inspiration, culture, and creativity into everything from words to brand executions.